SB    17    2fiE 


AJf  K  Z  Z 


LIBRARY 

.OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


Class 


UNIVERSH 

OF 


ELEMENTARY    SLOYD 


AND 


WHITTLING 


With   Drawings  and  Working   Directions 


BT 


Gustaf  Larsson 

Prificipal  of  the  Sloyd  Training  School,  Boston,  Massachusetts 


SILVER,  BURDETT  AND  COMPANY 

NEW  YORK  BOSTON  CHICAGO 


Copyright,  1906,  by 
SILVER,  BURDETT  AND  COMPANY 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

INTRODUCTION 1 

WOODS  OR  TIMBER 5 

TOOLS  AND  IMPLEMENTS  FOR  ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  (ILLUSTRATED). 12 

LIST  OF  TOOLS  AND  MATERIALS 17 

WORKING  DIRECTIONS  FOR  ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  (ILLUSTRATED) 37 

STAINING  AND  POLISHING 65 

WHITTLING 69 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS 70 

WORKING  DIRECTIONS  FOR  WHITTLING  (ILLUSTRATED) 72 

OUTFIT  OF  TOOLS  AND  MATERIALS  (ILLUSTRATED) 93 

SPONTANEOUS  CREATIONS  BY   CHILDREN  UNDER  TWELVE  YEARS  OF  AGE 

(ILLUSTRATED) 96 


166160 


UNIVERSITY 

OF 


INTRODUCTION 

SLOYD  is  tool  work  so  arranged  and  employed  as  to  stimulate  and 
promote  vigorous,  intelligent  self -activity  for  a  purpose  which  the 
worker  recognizes  as  good.  By  "  Elementary  Sloyd "  is  meant  bench 
work  in  wood,  in  two  dimensions  adapted  to  children  from  eight  to 
twelve  years  of  age.  In  1889  I  published  a  series  of  working  drawings 
for  " Preliminary  Sloyd"  with  a  teachers'  "Sloyd  Manual  of  Working 
Directions. "  The  changes  and  improvements  made  since  that  time  are 
the  results  gained  from  the  experience  of  many  teachers,  and  are  embod- 
ied in  the  course  here  outlined. 

It  is  thought  by  some  that  children  under  twelve  years  of  age  have 
not  the  requisite  strength  and  maturity  to  handle  ordinary  wood-working 
tools,  but,  owing  to  the  recognized  necessity  of  providing  for  the  vigor- 
ous muscular  activity  of  younger  children,  this  course  is  suggested. 

I  have  endeavored  to  select  larger  objects  than  those  commonly 
given  children  at  this  age,  so  that  they  may  obtain  more  physical  exer- 
cise, and,  although  a  good  finish  should  be  insisted  upon,  less  accuracy 
is  required.  The  objects  are  chosen  with  special  reference  to  the  inter- 
ests of  a.  child  at  this  age,  and  are  different  from  those  which  have  been 
suggested  for  the  three  upper  grammar  grades.  This  course  may 
include  toys  and  games  which  appeal  to  young  children. 

Many  of  the  objects  in  this  course  have  been  evolved  after  a  careful 
study  of  a  large  variety  of  children's  original  work  in  wood. 

Whether  we  should  always  allow  children  to  select  what  they  may 
choose  to  make,  or  whether  some  consideration  of  logical  sequence  or 
graded  effort  should  underlie  the  work,  can  best  be  decided  by  visiting 
schools  and  carefully  observing  classes  engaged  in  actual  work  under 


[11 


INTRODUCTION 


different  conditions.  The  point  is,  I  believe,  that  we  should  find  out 
whether  or  not  what  the  child  would  like  to  do  harmonizes  with  the 
educational  idea  of  what  he  had  bent  do.  For  myself,  I  believe  fully  in 
the  value  of  spontaneity  in  educational  work.  I  also  believe  that  spon- 
taneity may  be  guided,  greatly  to  the  advantage  of  the  child. 

The  many  different  kinds  of  handiwork  now  experimented  with  in 
the  lower  grades  of  our  public  schools  are,  without  doubt,  of  much  value 
when  given  by  a  teacher  thoroughly  competent  and  interested  in  his 
work,  and  they  also  have  the  advantage  of  being  taught  in  the  regular 
schoolroom,  by  the  regular  grade  teacher,  and  with  inexpensive  outfit. 
Such  work,  however,  can  never  take  the  place  of  sloyd,  which,  with  its 
large  variety  of  tools  and  exercises,  provides  for  more  free  and  vigorous 
muscular  movements  and  offers  a  more  stimulating  motive  to  the  worker 
in  the  objects  which  he  makes. 

"  Elementary  Sloyd"  is  suggested  for  use  in  the  fifth  and  sixth  gram- 
mar grades,  and  also  for  any  special  classes,  public  or  private,  given 
at  home  clubs,  settlements,  summer  schools,  etc.  It  requires  a  special 
room  equipped  with  suitable  benches  and  tools.  The  number  of  chil- 
dren in  the  class  should  be  limited  to  twenty. 

The  teacher  should  have  training  and  experience,  as  well  as  a  good 
knowledge  of  the  correct  use  and  care  of  tools  and  of  the  best  methods 
of  performing  the  various  exercises. 

The  drawings,  models,  tools,  and  material  are  simpler  than  those  used 
in  the  upper  grades.  Generally,  only  one  view  is  given  in  the  drawing, 
and  only  the  necessary  facts  for  the  construction  shown.  The  direc- 
tions are  brief,  being  intended  merely  as  hints  for  methods  of  pro- 
cedure. 

While  these  drawings  and  directions  are  intended  primarily  for  the 
use  of  the  teacher,  the  children  may  work  from  them  directly,  after  they 
have  gained  some  facility  in  the  use  of  tools  and  in  the  ability  to  read 


INTRODUCTION 


drawings.     It   should   be   understood,    however,   that  no   directions   or 
drawings  can  take  the  place  of  the  teacher. 

In  order  to  give  the  children  a  clear  idea  of  what  they  are  to  do,  the 
teacher  should  first  present  the  model,  and,  by  questions  and  explana- 
tions, lead  the  children  to  a  correct  understanding  of  both  the  model 
and  its  use.  Enlarged  blackboard  drawings  should  be  made  for  the 
children  to  read,  and  they  may  also  be  taught  to  make  sketches  and 
simple  working  drawings. 

As  a  general  rule,  the  method  of  procedure  should  be : 
First :  From  the  model. 
Second :  From  model  and  drawing. 
Third:  From  drawing  alone. 

Fourth:  From    the  children's  own  suggestions  guided   by  the 
teacher. 

Correct  working  positions  should  be  insisted  upon ;  self-reliance  and 
generosity  should  be  fostered,  and  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  fin- 
ished product  should  represent  the  child's  own  effort. 

There  is  often  a  vague  idea  as  to  what  is  meant  by  the  educational 
value  of  manual  training.  I  would  suggest,  to  make  this  subject  clear, 
that,  while  the  children  are  at  work,  the  following  questions  should  be 
satisfactorily  answered  by  supervisors,  teachers,  or  visitors: 

First.  Are  the  child's  positions  and  movements  while  working  such 
as  are  likely  to  be  injurious  or  beneficial  to  his  physical  development? 

Second.  Is  he  doing  his  own  thinking,  unprompted  and  uninter- 
rupted by  the  teacher? 

Third.  Is  his  work  so  carried  on  that  self-respect  is  developed  rather 
than  vanity  ? 

Fourth.  Is  he  learning  to  recognize  and  to  love  excellence  of  work- 
manship, as  shown  by  becoming  more  and  more  critical  of  himself  and 
his  own  achievements? 


[3] 


INTRODUCTION 


Fifth.  Is  he  learning  to  recognize  good  form  and  to  avoid  unsuitable 
decoration  ? 

Sixth.    Is  he  getting  some  training  in  good  citizenship  by  working 

for  others? 

• 

Seventh.  Does  the  finished  product  represent  the  child's  own  effort, 
and  is  the  workmanship  good ;  or  was  the  problem  too  difficult  f 

Although  the  models  and  the  directions  here  outlined  have  been 
planned  with  great  care,  it  must  be  understood  that  they  are  not  recom- 
mended as  a  fixed  and  unalterable  plan  of  work.  Teachers  should 
always  change  the  methods  and  models  in  the  interest  of  general 
improvement  or  adapt  them  for  special  needs. 

It  is  hoped  that  the  suggestions  here  given  may  prove  of  service  to 
teachers  as  well  as  to  pupils,  and  meet  the  demand  of  a  genuine  need. 


[4] 


WOOD  OR  TIMBER 

A  variety  of  native  woods  suited  to  the  character  of  the  objects 
made  should  be  selected.  Wood  is  conceded  to  be  superior  to  any  other 
manual- training  material.  It  has,  so  to  speak,  more  life  than  such 
materials  as  clay,  paper,  or  metal.  The  material  itself  excites  an  in- 
terest in  the  children.  The  structure  or  grain,  as  well  as  the  great  vari- 
ety in  coloring,  gives  an  opportunity  to  study  nature's  way  of  decora- 
tion. From  a  physiological  standpoint,  also,  there  is  no  material  to 
meet  the  requirements  quite  as  adequately  as  wood  does.  It  gives  a 
measured  resistance  to  the  muscles,  and  can  be  adapted  to  the  individual 
strength  of  the  worker. 

The  teacher  should  have  a  good  knowledge  of  the  different  kinds  of 
wood  suitable  for  sloyd  work,  especially  of  those  kinds  most  easily 
obtained  in  the  vicinity  of  the  school. 

The  various  woods  are  recognized  by  their  texture,  color,  weight, 
and  odor.  The  texture  is  best  studied  in  the  transverse,  radial,  and  tan- 
gential sections.  By  a  transverse  or  cross  section  is  meant  a  cut  across 
the  fibres  of  a  tree  or  board.  A  tangential  section  is  cut  in  the  direction 
of  the  fibres  and  at  a  tangent  to  the  rings  of  the  annual  layers.  A  radial 
section  is  also  made  in  the  direction  of  the  fibres,  but  forms  a  radius  of 
the  rings.  It  is  this  last  cut  which  gives  the  beautiful  figures  found  in 
oak,  beech,  and  maple,  and  is  commonly  called  quartered  wood. 

In  studying  the  cross  section  we  find  in  the  centre  a  column  of  cellu- 
lar tissue  called  the  pith  or  medulla,  and  around  this  centre  a  number  of 
concentric  rings  called  the  annual  layers.  By  counting  the  number  of 
these  rings  we  find  the  age  of  the  tree.  Heartwood  is  the  darker  and 
firmer  part  around  the  pith  and  sapivood  is  the  outer,  lighter,  and  sappy 


[5] 


ELEMENTARY  fiLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 

part  of  the  trunk.  The  heartwood  is  more  fully  developed,  and,  con- 
sequently, more  durable  than  the  sapwood.  Between  the  bark  and  the 
last  annual  layer  is  a  ring  called  the  Cambium.  This  is  in  a  transition 
state,  and  consists  of  a  number  of  very  small  cells,  which  during  spring, 
summer,  and  autumn  undergo  many  changes  in  composition  and  form, 
and  ultimately  form  a  new  annual  ring  consisting  of  two  distinct  tex- 
tures known  as  sprint/  -wood  and  autumn  wood.  Spring  wood  is  lighter 
and  more  porous,  while  autumn  wood  is  darker  and  more  durable. 
This  is  partly  the  reason  for  the  shifting  color  in  wood.  Small  lines  or 
fibres  leading  from  the  centre  to  the  bark  are  called  medullary  rays  or 
silver  grain.  These  bind  together  the  annual  layers  and  help  in  the 
distribution  of  moisture  through  the  tree. 

The  best  season  for  felling  trees  is  during  midwinter  when  the  sap  is 
at  a  standstill.  By  the  seasoning  of  wood  is  meant  the  driving  out  of 
the  sap  or  moisture  which  the  wood  contains.  We  call  wood  seasoned 
when  the  quantity  of  moisture  contained  coincides  with  that  contained 
in  the  atmosphere.  A  fence,  for  example,  would  not  need  wood  as  well 
seasoned  as  that  used  for  inside  furniture.  If  too  well  seasoned,  the 
wood  will  swell ;  if  not  sufficiently  seasoned,  it  will  shrink.  AVe  can 
generally  tell  whether  wood  is  well  seasoned  by  its  weight.  Another 
way  of  testing  is  by  knocking  on  the  wood,  and,  if  it  is  well  seasoned, 
it  gives  forth  a  ringing  sound.  Various  methods  of  seasoning  are  em- 
ployed. The  best  method  is  to  place  the  wood  in  the  open  air  in  such  a 
way  as  to  permit  the  air  to  circulate  freely  about  it.  Previous  to  this 
the  logs  are  often  placed  in  a  stream  of  water  to  draw  out  the  sap  more 
quickly.  Another  process  of  hastening  the  seasoning  is  by  artificial 
means.  The  lumber  is  placed  in  a  gradually  rising  temperature  in  a 
kiln,  hence  the  name,  kiln-dried  wood.  The  rapidity  with  which  the 
moisture  is  evaporated  depends  on  the  size  and  quality  of  the  wood. 
Soft  wood  will  nsnallv  dry  in  a  kiln  in  four  days,  while  hard  woods  take 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 

longer,  some  requiring  years  to  season.  The  drying  must  always  be 
done  gradually  and  carefully,  or  the  wood  may  split. 

Lumber  stored  up  for  sloyd  work  should  be  placed  in  such  a  way 
that  the  air  will  circulate  freely  around  it,  that  is  to  say,  if  placed  on 
shelves,  strips  of  wood  should  be  placed  between  the  boards. 

{Shrinking  occurs  whenever  the  wood  loses  moisture.  The  shrinkage 
is  least  with  the  length  of  the  fibres,  and  two  or  three  times  more  in  a 
tangential  than  in  a  radial  direction. 

Swelling  is  Caused  by  the  absorption  of  moisture,  as  a  drop  of  water 
placed  upon  a  dent  in  a  sloyd  model,  will  readily  prove. 

Warping  is  unequal  shrinking  or  swelling. 

Winding  is  unequal  warping  caused  by  unevenness  in  grain.  First- 
class  lumber  is  carefully  selected  and  well  seasoned,  and  it  is  this  grade 
which  is  required  in  sloyd. 

Lumber  used  in  sloyd  is  generally  ordered  by  the  square  foot,  with 
a  statement  of  kind,  quality,  thickness,  and  approximate  width  of 
boards  wanted,  and  whether  they  are  to  be  rough  or  planed. 

The  following  brief  description  of  a  few  kinds  of  common  trees  and 
woods,  with  the  different  American  and  Latin  names,  may  be  of  interest 
and  help  to  teachers  and  students  of  Elementary  Sloyd  and  Whittling  : 

White  Pine,  Weymouth  Pine,  Pinus  strobus,  is  one  of  the  tallest  and 
most  stately  of  our  evergreen  trees.  It  sometimes  reaches  a  height  of 
one  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  with  a  diameter  of  three  to  four  feet. 
Found  from  Newfoundland  to  Manitoba  and  along  the  Alleghany  Moun- 
tains to  Georgia.  Bark  of  the  trunk  is  lighter  and  smoother  than  in 
the  other  pines.  Leaves  or  needles,  from  three  to  five  inches  long  and 
grow  in  clusters  of  five.  Cones,  from  four  to  six  inches  long  and  about 
one  inch  in  diameter ;  cylinder-shaped  and  slightly  curved.  Wood  is 
valuable  timber,  and  when  freshly  cut  is  of  a  creamy-white  appearance, 
but  becomes  light  brown  on  exposure.  The  wood  is  free  from  knots, 

[7] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 

straight-grained,  and  soft ;  not  liable  to  warp  and  twist,  and  gives  a  clean, 
aromatic  smell. 

White  Pine  is  excellent  for  sloyd  work,  but  is  expensive.  White 
Wood  and  Bass  Wood  are  less  expensive,  and  may  be  used  to  some  extent 
instead  of  Pine. 

White  Wood,  Tulip  Tree,  Liriodendron  tulipifera.  The  Tulip  Tree 
reaches  a  height  of  one  hundred  and  ninety  feet,  with  a  trunk  ten  feet  in 
diameter.  Found  mostly  as  far  south  as  Alabama  and  Georgia  Com- 
mon in  New  England  States,  but  not  abundant.  Bark,  dark  ash-color, 
furrowed.  Leaves,  alternate,  simple,  three  to  five  inches  long  and  wide. 
Wood,  light,  soft,  straight-grained;  heartwood  light  yellow  or  brown, 
and  the  thin  sapwood  nearly  white. 

Bass  Wood,  American  Linden,  Lime  Tree,  Bee  Tree,  Tilia  americana. 
A  straight-trunked  tree,  sixty  to  eighty  feet  high  and  two  to  four  feet 
in  diameter.  Found  from  British  America  southwest  to  Virginia. 
Bark,  very  thick,  dark  brown.  Inner  bark  very  tough.  Is  used  for 
mats  and  coarse  rope.  Leaves,  about  four  to  five  inches  long  and  from 
three  to  four  inches  wide.  Wood,  white,  soft,  and  clear  of  knots,  less 
valuable  than  White  Wood,  owing  to  its  liability  to  crack  in  bending. 

Sugar  Maple,  Hard  Maple,  Rock  Maple,  Acer  saccharinum.  A  tree 
fifty  to  eighty  feet  high  or  more.  Found  from  southern  Canada 
through  the  Northern  States.  It  grows  in  rich  woods,  often  forming 
"  groves."  From  its  sap  we  get  "  maple  sugar,"  about  five  to  ten  pounds 
from  the  average  tree  each  season.  Bark,  light  gray  and  smooth. 
Leaves,  simple,  opposite.  Wood  is  white,  uniform  in  texture,  hard, 
strong,  tough,  and  difficult  to  split.  Accidental  variations  furnish  the 
handsome  Bird's-Eye  Maple  and  Curled  Maple. 

Beech,  Fagus  ferruginea.  A  stately  tree,  about  fifty  to  eighty  feet 
high.  Found  in  rich  woods  from  Nova  Scotia  to  Florida  and  westward 
to  lower  Mississippi  basin.  Bark,  light  gray  and  smooth.  Leaves, 


L8] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 

egg-shaped,  three  to  six  inches  long  and  about  half  as  wide.  Fruit,  a 
small  prickly  burr,  splitting  half-way  to  the  base  when  ripe.  Wood, 
hard,  ^close-grained,  light  brown,  uniform  in  color.  Medullary  rays, 
large,  glossy,  and  dark  brown. 

Sweet  Gum,  Bilsted,  Liquidambar  siyraciflua.  Sweet  Gum  comes 
from  the  Witch-hazel  family,  and  is  a  tree  sixty  to  one  hundred  feet 
high,  with  a  trunk  two  to  five  feet  in  diameter.  Found  from  Connecti- 
cut to  Illinois  and  southward.  Bark,  light  brown.  In  the  South  a 
spicy  gum  comes  from  the  bark  and  is  used  medicinally.  Leaves, 
simple,  alternate,  five-pointed,  star-shaped,  from  three  to  five  inches 
long  and  three  to  seven  inches  broad.  Wood,  bright  reddish-brown, 
sapwood  nearly  white,  close-grained,  not  strong,  liable  to  warp  in  dry- 
ing, easy  to  work,  takes  good  polish. 

Eed  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana.  An  evergreen  tree,  fifteen  to  thirty 
feet  high.  Found  in  southern  Canada  and  distributed  throughout  the 
United  States.  Bark,  reddish  brown.  Leaves,  needle-shaped,  about 
one-fourth  of  an  inch  long  and  placed  in  pairs,  sometimes  in  threes. 
Fruit  or  berries,  about  the  size  of  a  small  pea,  bluish  and  covered  with 
a  white  powder.  Wood,  valuable,  light,  durable,  fragrant.  Heartwood 
dull  red,  sapwood  white.  Used  almost  exclusively  in  the  making  of 
lead  pencils. 

Butternut,  White  Walnut,  Juglans  cinerea.  Common.  Usually  fifty 
to  seventy  feet  high.  Bark,  light  grayish-brown.  Leaves,  alternate, 
•compound,  fifteen  to  thirty  inches  long,  with  eleven  to  seventeen  leaflets. 
Fruit,  nut,  rough,  nearly  cylindrical ;  one-half  to  two  and  a  half  inches 
long.  Kernel  sweet,  but  oily.  Wood,  light  brown,  light,  soft.  Coarse- 
grained and  not  strong.  Takes  good  polish. 

Black  Walnut,  Juglans  nigra.  This  is  one  of  the  grandest  and  most 
massive  trees.  It  reaches  a  height  of  sixty  to  seventy  feet.  Generally 
distributed,  abundant  in  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  Valley.  Bark, 


[9] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND   WHITTLING 

dark  brown.  Leaves,  alternate,  compound,  from  one  to  two  feet 
long.  Fifteen  to  twenty -three  leaflets.  Fruit,  nut,  oval.  About  one 
and  one-half  inches  in  length.  Kernel  sweet  and  edible.  Wood,  dark 
purplish  -brown,  heavy,  hard,  close-grained,  and  strong.  Takes  a  beau- 
tiful polish. 

The  Eedwood,  Sequoia  sempervirens.  The  Eedwood  of  California  is 
a  coniferous  tree  and  belongs  to  a  genus  of  which  the  Big  Tree  is  the 
only  other  species  now  alive.  Eedwood  forms  dense  forests  on  the  west 
slopes  of  the  Coast  Eange.  It  grows  to  a  greater  height  than  any  other 
American  tree.  It  reaches  a  height  of  from  two  hundred  and  twenty - 
five  to  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  with  a  diameter  of  from  ten  to 
twenty  feet.  Most  of  the  Eedwood  cut  are  from  four  hundred  to  eight 
hundred  years  old.  The  oldest  Eedwood  found  began  life  one  thousand 
three  hundred  and  seventy-three  years  ago.  Bark  is  of  a  reddish-gray 
color.  Wood  is  of  color  that  shades  from  light  cherry  to  dark  mahog- 
any. It  is  used  for  all  kinds  of  finishing  and  construction  lumber. 
Usually  straight -grained,  light,  firm,  yet  soft.  The  wood  is  durable, 
easy  to  work,  and  takes  a  good  polish.  This  wood  is  not  much  used  in 
the  Eastern  market,  owing  largely  to  the  high  freight-rates  in  shipping. 

SUPPLEMENTARY  READING  ON  TREES  FOR  THE  TEACHER. 

"  Our  Native  Trees,"  by  Harriet  L.  Keeler,  Charles  Scribner's  Sons,  New  York. 

"  American  Woods/'  by  Romeyn  Hough,  Lowville,  N.  Y. 

"The  Trees  of  North-Eastern  America,"  by  Charles  S.  Xewhall. 

"  Timber/'  Bulletin  No.  10,  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  Division  of 
Forestry. 

"  The  Redwood,"  Bulletin  No.  38,  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture,  Bureau  of 
Forestry. 

"  With  the  Trees,"  by  Maud  Going,  comments  on  the  trees  from  the  standpoints  of 
the  naturalist  and  nature-lover,  and  contains  legends  and  stories. 

"  A  Year  with  Trees,"  by  Wilson  Flagg;  gives  brief  essays  on  trees  and  their  habits,  and 
considers  the  tree  in  its  relation  to  climate,  soil,  birds,  insects,  ornament,  poetry,  and  fable. 

"A  Guide  to  the  Trees,"  by  Alice  Lounsberry;  brief  descriptions  or  trees  from  the 
standpoint  of  the  naturalist,  with  some  notes  of  legend  and  history.  Especially  fine 
illustrations  in  color  by  Mrs.  Ellis  Rowan. 

" Familiar  Trees,"  by  F.  Schuyler  Matthews;  a  naturalist's  description  of  trees. 

[10] 


ELEMENTARY  8LOYJ)  AND   WHITTLING 

~~  •  ~ 

"Among  Flowers  and  Trees  with  the  Poets,"  compiled  by  Minnie  Curtis  Wait  and 
Merton  Channing  Leonard.  Parts  III  and  IV  of  this  volume  are  devoted  to  trees  and 
shrubs — in  general;  trees  and  shrubs — specified.  This  book  contains  a  rare  collection 
of  flower  and  tree  poetry. 

"  In  the  Child's  World/'  by  Emilie  Poulsson ;  list  of  tree  selections  for  teachers  is 
given  on  page  256. 

SUPPLEMENTARY  READING  ON  TREES  FOR  CHILDREN 

The  following  list  of  books  for  children  contains  facts  about  trees,  de- 
scriptions of  trees  and  their  habits,  as  well  as  stories,  myths,  and  legends 
in  prose  and  poetry.  Most  of  the  volumes  are  illustrated. 

"Trees  in  Prose  and  Poetry,"  by  Gertrude  L.  Stone  and  Grace  Frichett.  This 
book  presents  the  tree  in  descriptive  narrative  and  in  legend,  myth,  and  story. 

"Book  of  Nature  Myths,"  by  Florence  Holbrook,  contains  two  legends:  "Why  the 
Evergreen  Trees  Never  Lose  Their  Leaves  "  and  "  Why  the  Aspen  Leaves  Tremble." 

"Nature  Myths,"  by  Flora  J.  Cooke,  contains  the  following  tree  stories:  "  Daphne," 
"Fairy  Story,"  "Philemon  and  Baucis,"  "Poplar  Tree,"  "The  Secret  of  Fire." 

"In  Mythland,"  by  M.  Helen  Beckwith,  contains  two  tree  stories:  "  How  Daphne 
Became  a  Tree":  "Philemon  and  Baucis." 

"The  Stories  Mother  Nature  Told  her  Children,"  by  Jane  Andrews,  contains  two  tree 
stories:  "The  Talk  of  the  Trees  in  the  Village  Street,"  "How  Quercus  Alba  went  to 
Explore  the  Under  World  and  What  Came  of  It." 

"The  Stories  of  the  Trees,"  by  Mrs.  Dyson,  presents,  in  a  series  of  talks,  the  nat- 
ural features  and  habits  of  trees,  as  well  as  various  historical  facts  relating  to  them. 

"  A  Japanese  Garland,"  by  Florence  Peltier,  gives  the  Japanese  symbolism  of  tree 
and  flower. 

"  The  Story  Hour,"  by  K.  D.  Wiggin  and  Nora  A.  Smith,  contains  "A  Story  of 
the  Forest,"  a^ charming  Xmas  story. 

"  Stories,"  by  Hans  C.  Andersen,  contains  "  The  Last  Dream  of  the  Old  Oak,"  a 
symbolic  tree  story  in  Andersen's  best  vein. 

"In  the  Child's  World, "by  Emilie  Poulsson,  gives  talks  and  poems  on  trees,  pages 
253-262.  In  this  volume  a  list  of  tree  selections  'is  given  for  teacher  and  children.  Page  30 


by  Jones  Very,  page  27. 

"Open  Sesame,"  vol.  1.  Edited  by  B.  W.  Bellamy  and  M.  D.  Goodwin.  "To  the 
Fir  Tree,"  from  the  German,  page  121. 

"All  the  Year  Round."  Part  II.  "Winter,"  compiled  by  Frances  L.  Strong; 
"The  Little  Fir  Trees,"  page  56;  by  Evaleen  Stein;  "The  Fir  Tree,"  adapted  from 
Andersen,  page  50;  "The  Discontented  Pine,"  by  C.  S.  Bumstead,  page  46;  "The 
Evergreen,"  page  42;  "  The  Pine,"  page  44. 

"Golden  Numbers,  "compiled  by  Kate  D.  Wiggin  and  Nora  A.  Smith;  "The  Plant- 
ing of  the  Apple  Tree,"  page  59,  Bryant;  "Mine  Host  of  the  Golden  Apple,"  page  64, 
Thomas  Westwood:  "  A  Young  Fir  Tree,"  D.  G.  Rossetti,  page  65;  "  The  Showing  of 
the  Pines,"  page  66,  by  T.  W  Higginson. 


[11 


TOOLS  AND  IMPLEMENTS   FOR  ELEMENT- 
ARY SLOYD 

TOOLS  are  instruments  by  which  the  hands  give  material  expression 
to  .thought.  Consequently,  such  tools  should  be  selected  as  will  best 
promote  physical  and  mental  growth. 

The  tools  should  be  of  the  best  quality;  although  the  first  cost 
may  seem  large  it  is  cheaper  in  the  long  run.  While  tools  of  regular 
size  are  best  in  ordinary  sloyd,  smaller  ones  should  be  selected  for 
young  children.  Toy  tools,  or  those  found  in  children's  tool-boxes,  are 
generally  of  poor  quality  and  not  to  be  recommended.  To  avoid  many 
failures,  the  tools  should  not  only  be  of  the  right  kind,  but  properly 
sharpened  and  adjusted.  It  must  be  remembered  that  good  tools  must 
be  kept  in  good  condition. 

To  teach  habits  of  order  and  neatness,  Benches  and  Tools  must  be 
kept  in  perfect  order.  The  rule  should  be:  "A  place  for  everything 
and  everything  in  its  place. " 

In  order  to  simplify  and  economize  the  outfit  for  Elementary  Sloyd, 
it  is  thought  best  that  only  one  kind  of  Plane  be  used,  and  that  such 
tools  as  Marking  Gauges,  Auger  Bits,  Chisels,  and  Carving  Tools  be 
excluded. 

The  following  illustrations,  with  explanations  of  Benches  and  Tools 
used  in  Elementary  Sloyd,  may  be  of  service : 


[12] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  1. 

SINGLE  ADJUSTABLE  SLOYD  BENCH 

The  Bench  here  illustrated  was  designed  by  the  author  in  1889.  It 
differs  from  the  ordinary  carpenter's  bench  in  that  it  is  adjustable  to 
suit  the  height  of  the  worker.  Instead  of  the  common  iron  bench-stop 
for  planing,  it  has  an  end  vise  and  holes  for  wooden  stops  or  pins  along 
the  bench-top.  These  hold  the  wood  securely  at  both  ends  while  plan- 
ing bevels,  cylinders,  etc.,  and  in  modelling  different  forms.  A  single 
stop  may  be  used  for  straight-surface  planing.  As  a  general  rule,  such 
work  as  requires  strong  muscular  effort  should  be  done  in  the  direction 
of  the  length  of  the  bench,  and  any  hammering  or  pounding  should  be 
done  over  the  upright  supports.  The  top  is  glued  up  from  four  or  more 


[13] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 

strips  of  maple  to  prevent  warping,  and  the  lower  part  is  fastened  to- 
gether by  keyed  joints.  Vises  and  screws  are  made  of  maple.  Wood 
screws  are  considered  better,  although  iron  screws  will  be  furnished  if 
desired. 

Two  sizes  of  this  Bench  are  made.  The  smaller  size  is  designated 
by  the  manufacturers  as  No.  6,  and  is  large  enough  for  any  work  which 
may  be  done  by  children  in  grammar  grades. 

The  extreme  length  and  width  of  Bench  No.  6  is  forty-two  by  twenty- 
eight  inches,  and  Bench  No.  5  is  one  foot  longer.  The  height  may  be 
adjusted  from  thirty  to  thirty -three  inches,  which  is  suitable  for  pupils 
from  eight  to  twelve  years. 

The  Benches  should  be  placed  in  such  a  way  as  to  have  the  light 
come  from  the  left  and  back  as  the  worker  faces  the  Bench. 

The  distance  between  Benches  should  not  be  less  than  two  feet. 
Benches  should  be  securely  fastened  to  the  floor  by  means  of  a  leg  screw 
at  each  end. 

Tools  most  frequently  used  are  kept  on  the  bench,  in  racks,  and  on 
hooks,  all  within  sight.  This  arrangement  allows  the  teacher  to  observe 
readily  the  order  in  which  the  tools  are  kept,  and  in  this  respect  it  is 
superior  to  the  use  of  drawers  and  lockers.  The  back-board  with  the 
tool-rack  may  be  lowered,  if  desired,  so  as  to  make  it  level  with  the 
bench-top.  Great  care  should  be  taken  not  to  injure  the  bench-top. 
To  keep  it  in  good  condition  it  should  be  rubbed  down  occasionally  with 
raw  linseed  oil. 


[14] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND   WHITTLING 


Fig.  2. 

WORK  TABLE  FOR  FOUR  PUPILS 

This  Table  is  designed  for  use  in  places  where  the  regular  single 
sloyd  bench  is  thought  too  expensive.  It  is  a  strong  Table.  Size  of 
top,  thirty-six  by  thirty-six  inches;  height,  thirty  inches;  four 
vises  attached.  This  accommodates  four  pupils. 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  3. 

CLAMP  VISE 

In  order  further  to  lessen  the  expense  of  an  outfit,  Clamp  Vises 
may  be  obtained  and  fastened  to  a  horizontal  board  or  strong  table. 
This  clamp  can  be  used  only  while  doing  light  work. 


[16] 


ELEMENTARY  8LOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Tools  illustrated  in  the  order  in  ivhich  they  are  used : 


Fig.  4. 

NEW  PENCIL  COMPASSES 

Lead  pencil  No.  3  is  recommended  for  wood -work.  Keep  point  of 
pencil  about  one  inch  long.  In  sharpening,  remove  wood  with  knife 
and  point  the  lead  on  No.  1  sandpaper. 

In  using  Compasses  adjust  point  to  equal  length  with  pencil  point 
and  hold  at  top  between  thumb  and  forefinger. 


Fig.  5. 

RULE  (BOXWOOD,  2  FT.  2  FOLD) 

Hold  Rule  011  edge  in  measuring  and  marking  distances,  but  lay  it 
flat  on  material  in  drawing  lines. 


[17] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  6. 

IRON  SMOOTH1NG-PLANE,  8  IN.  X  1  3-4  IN.  CUTTER 

(BAILEY) 

Set  Cap-iron  about  one -sixteenth  of  an  inch  from  edge  of  Plane- 
iron.  Adjust  plane  iron  for  coarse  or  fine  shavings  by  using  the  thumb 
on  the  brass  adjusting-nut  (thumb-screw)  while  resting  the  "heel"  on 
the  bench.  Move  lateral  adjustment  so  as  to  make  edge  of  Plane-iron 
appear  even. 

Grasp  the  plane  by  the  handle  and  press  and  guide  firmly  with  the 
other  hand  on  the  "  knob, "  taking  special  care  not  to  tip  the  plane  at 
the  ends  of  the  wood. 

When  planing  with  right  hand  place  left  foot  forward  in  direction  of 
working  force.  Keep  legs  and  back  straight,  but  not  in  a  constrained 
position. 

When  end  planing  on  bench  hook  is  to  be  done,  set  cap  back  about 
one-eighth  of  an  inch,  and  hold  side  of  plane  firmly  on  the  bench  close  to 
bench  hook. 

If  plane  clogs  with  shavings  remove  iron  to  clean  it.  Never  take 
out  shavings  with  knife  or  any  other  tool.  In  grinding  or  whetting 
plane-iron  keep  cutting-edge  and  bevel  straight,  rounding  the  corners  a 
little. 


[18] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  ANT)  WHITTLING 


8. 


Fig.  7. 
LIST  OF  PAETS  OF  BAILEY  PLANE 


1.  Plane -Iron. 

2.  Plane-Iron  Cap. 

3.  Plane -Iron  Screw. 

4.  Cap. 

5.  Cap  Screw. 

6.  Frog. 

7.  "Y"  Adjustment. 
Brass       Adjusting-Nut 
Thumb -screw. 


9.  Lateral  Adjustment. 

10.  Frog  Screw. 

11.  Handle. 

12.  Knob. 

13.  Handle  "Bolt and  Nut. 

14.  Knob  "Bolt  and  Nut." 

15.  Handle  Screw, 
or        16.  Bottom. 


Fig.  8. 

BENCH-HOOK,  OAK 

Examine  Bench -hook  with  try  square  to  see  if  it  is  true 


correct  it  before  usin 
flat  and  firmly. 


If  not, 
Hook  it  over  edge  of  bench  or  fasten  in  vise 


[19] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  9. 

SPLITTING  SAW  (SPECIAL,  14  IN.  10PTS.) 

This  Saw  is  used  for  sawing  with  the  grain  of  the  wood,  or  in  the 
direction  in  which  the  wood  splits.  The  cutting-off  or  cross-cut  Saw  is 
used  for  cutting  across  the  fibres  of  the  wood.  For  shape  of  different 
teeth  see  Fig.  10. 

The  Saw  should  be  grasped  firmly  with  one  hand  on  handle  and  the 
other  resting  on  the  wood.  Place  the  feet  in  proper  position,  with  the 
advance  foot  in  the  direction  of  the  working  force,  as  in  planing.  The 
saw  must  not  be  pressed  down  upon  the  wood,  but  moved  horizontally 
with  long,  light,  and  even  strokes. 

NOTE  :  In  the  vigorous  exercises  of  planing  and  sawing,  it  is  of  the 
utmost  importance  that  correct  positions  be  maintained,  in  order  to 
avoid  fatigue  and  possible  deformity,  and  to  insure  better  work.  For 
the  same  reasons  exercises  in  planing,  sawing,  and  boring  may  be  done 
alternately  by  right  and  left-hand. 


[20] 


ELEMENTARY  8LOTD  AND   WHITTLING 


Splitting  10  pts.  to  inch. 


Cutting  off  12  pts.  to  inch. 

Fig.  10. 

SAW  TEETH 


m"   '' 'i  '    '  \ '     '  i  '    '  i  ' 

•     I      I     a     k      1 


Fig.  11. 

IRON  HANDLE  TRY  SQUARE 

This  tool  consists  of  blade  and  beam  or  handle,  and  is  used  for  test- 
ing surfaces  which  should  be  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  and  for 
spuaring  lines  across  the  wood.  In  using  hold  the  handle  firmly  up  to 
the  planed  face  (working  face)  of  the  wood.  Do  not  hammer  or  pry 
with  this  tool,  as  it  makes  it  inaccurate  for  lise. 


[21] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  12. 

BIT  BRACE    (BARBER,  4  IN.) 

Fasten  the  bit  securely  in  the  jaws.     When  using  hold  the  head  of 
the  brace  in  the  left  hand  and  turn  crank  to  right. 


Fig.  13. 

DRILL  BIT,  WITH  BIT  POINT 

This  bit  is  used  for  boring  holes  for  nails,  screws,  etc.  This  tool  has 
a  triangular  point  to  insure  its  boring  in  the  right  place.  Be  careful  to 
hold  bit  at  right  angles  to  wood  and  use  light,  even  pressure.  Boring 
in  a  horizontal  direction  is  preferable  in  Elementary  Sloyd. 


L22] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


— Lip 


Fig.  14. 

CENTRE  BIT 

-  This  tool  is  useful  for  boring  in  thin  wood,  as  it  does  not  split  it. 
Bore  only  until  the  centre  or  spur  comes  through,  then  turn  wood  and 
finish. 

The  bit  should  be  sharpened  with  a  fine  file  and  slip  stone  and  tried 
on  waste  piece  of  wood  before  using. 


Fig.  15. 


COUNTERSINK  (ROSE) 

This  tool  is  used  with  brace  to  sink  holes  for  screw  heads. 


[23] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  16. 

TOOL  HANDLE  WITH  20  AWLS  AND  TOOLS 

The  cuts  of  this  tool  illustrate  the  various  uses  for  which  it  is 
adapted. 

In  using  the  brad-awl  place  the  edge  across  the  grain  of  the  wood 
and  repeatedly  turn  the  hand  half-way  around  and  back  with  slight 
pressure. 


[24] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  17. 

BACK  SAW,  10  INCH 

This  is  a  saw  with  very  fine  teeth  and  makes  a  smooth  cut.  In  Ele- 
mentary Sloyd  it  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  cross-cut  saw. 

The  thin  blade  is  strengthened  by  an  iron  "back,"  from  which  the 
saw  derives  its  name. 


.     Fig.  18. 

HAMMER,  A.  E.  B.  F.  (7  OZ.) 

Hold  the  hammer  near  the  end  of  handle  and  strike  squarely  on  the 
nail  head.  When  withdrawing  nails  with  the  claw  of  the  hammer  place 
a  block  of  wood  under  the  head  so  as  not  to  injure  the  planed  surface. 


[25] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND   WHITTLING 


Fig.  19. 

NAIL  SET  (HOLLOW  POINT) 

The  nail  set  is  used  for  driving  nails  below  the  surface  of  the 
wood.  The  hole  left  in  the  wood  after  setting  the  nail  may  be  partly 
closed  by  applying  a  drop  of  water,  but  no  putty  or  plug  should  be  used. 
The  nail  set  with  the  hollow  point  is  preferable  to  the  one  with  a  flat 
point,  as  it  does  not  slip. 


Fig.  20. 

HALF  ROUND  FILE,  8  IN. 

A  file  should  never  be  used  when  an  edge  tool  can  accomplish  the 
work. 

In  smoothing  a  surface  to  a  line  hold  the  handle  of  the  file  with  the 
right  hand  and  place  the  left  hand  at  the  end  of  the  file,  with  the  thumb 
on  the  top.  If  the  file  becomes  clogged,  use  a  file  card  or  place  in  luke- 
waim  water.  After  drying  clean  with  a  brush. 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


;  Fig.  21. 

TURNING  SAW  (8  IN.,  1-8  IN.  BLADE,  12  PTS.) 

Before  using  the  turning  saw,  see  that  the  blade  is  perfectly  straight 
and  tight.  Grasp  the  saw  with  both  hands  at  the  handle  where  the 
teeth  of  the  saw  point  away  from  you  and  move  it  squarely  through  the 
wood  with  long,  light,  steady  strokes.  By  loosening  the  cord  and  tak- 
ing out  one  end  of  the  blade  it  may  be  used  for  interior  cutting,  such  as 
picture-frames,  etc. 


IRON  SPOKE-SHAVE 

The  spoke-shave  is  a  most  valuable  tool  because  both  hands  are 
equally  used.  Originally  it  was  used  in  making  spokes,  hence  its  name. 
It  can  be  used  either  from  you  or  towards  you,  but  always  011  curved 
surfaces  and  should  not  be  used  where  the  plane  can  be  used  equally 
well.  Care  must  be  taken  to  cut  always  with  the  grain  of  the  wood. 


[27] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  23. 

SCREW-DRIVER,  3-IN.  ROUND 

See  that  the  end  of  the  screw-driver  is  perfectly  flat  and  that  the 
narrow  sides  are  as  nearly  parallel  as  possible.  In  using  hold  it  firmly 
and  straight  in  the  groove  of  the  screw  head,  so  as  not  to  mar  the  screw 
head. 


Fig.  24. 

SLOYD  KNIFE,  3-IN.  BLADE 

The  knife  is  not  recommended  for  Elementary  Sloyd,  as  children  may 
not  have  sufficient  strength  for  its  use.  It  is  a  useful  tool,  however,  in 
places  where  no  other  can  be  used  conveniently.  The  knife  recom- 
mended has  a  blade  three  inches  long,  with  a  straight  bevel  on  both 
sides  and  a  four-inch  handle.  The  tang  of  the  blade  is  riveted  through 
the  handle  so  as  to  make  it  more  secure. 


[2g] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  25. 

COMPASS  SAW  (IRON  HANDLE) 

The  compass  or  keyhole  saw  is  used  to  saw  interior  parts,  such  as 
keyholes,  picture -frames,  etc. 


Fig.  26. 

DRAWING  KNIFE 

This  tool,  like  the  spoke-shave,  can  be  used  with  both  hands. 
It  is  used  for  heavy  work  in  cutting  oif  rough  edges,  branches  and  bark, 
rounding  poles,  handles,  etc.  In  using  the  drawing  knife  the  wood 
should  be  fastened  in  the  vise. 


[29] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  27 

FLAT  FILE,  SMOOTH,  5  IN. 

This  file  is  used  for  sharpening  bits,  cap  irons,  etc. ,  previous  to  the 
use  of  the  slip  stone. 


Fig.  28. 

SLIP  STONE 

The  slip  stone  is  used  for  whetting  the  inside  of  gouges,  bits,  etc. 


Fig.  29. 

SHARPENING  OUTFIT 

The  oil  stone  should  be  kept  clean  and  straight.  If  uneven  it  is 
difficult  to  sharpen  the  tools  properly. 

To  make  the  oil  stone  level  fasten  a  half  sheet  of  No.  1  sandpaper  on 
a  board,  apply  a  little  water,  and  rub  until  true. 


[30] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  30. 

GRINDSTONE,  18-IN.  DIAMETER 

Keep  water  in  the  trough  only  when  grinding.  In  sharpening  edge 
tools  turn  the  stone  toward  the  edge  of  the  tool.  Hold  the  tool  steadily 
and  firmly  and  give  a  lateral  motion  across  the  stone  to  prevent  irreg- 
ular wearing. 

Aim  to  make  a  flat  bevel. 


For  the  illustration  of  tools,  the  author  is  indebted  to  Messrs.  Chandler  &  Barber, 
Boston,  Mass. 


[31] 


ELEMENTARY  8LOTD  AND  WHITTLING 


LIST   OF   TOOLS   AND   MATERIAL   FOE  FOUR   PUPILS 

1  Work  Table  for  four  pupils,  $10. 
Single  Adjustable  Sloyd  Bench,  $9. 

4  New  Pencil  Compasses,  with  Lead  Pencil  No.  3. 
4  Rules  (boxwood,  2  foot,  2  fold). 
4  Iron  Smoothing  Planes,  8xlf  inch  cutter  (Bailey). 
4  Bench  Hooks. 

2  Splitting  Saws  (special  14  inches,  10  points). 
4  Try  Squares,  (6  inches). 

2  Bit  Braces  (Barber,  4  inches). 

2  Drill  Bits,  with  bit  points  each  3-16  and  \  inch. 

2  Centre  Bits,  each,  f ,  f,  -J-,  f ,  and  £  inch. 

1  Countersink  (Rose). 

1  Tool  Handle  (20  awls  and  tools). 

2  Back  Saws,  (10  inches). 

1  Hammer,  A.  E.  B.  F.  (7  ounces). 

1  Nail  Set  (hollow  point). 

2  Half  Round  Files  (8  inches). 

2  Turning  Saws  (8  inches,  |-inch  blade,  12  points). 
2  Iron  Spoke-shaves. 

1  Screw-driver  (3  inches  round). 

2  Sloyd  Knives  (3-inch  blade). 

1  Cross-cut  Saw  (special,  14  inches). 

1  Compass  Saw  (iron  handle). 

Total  cost  for  one  pupil  with  single  Adjustable  Bench,  $20. 

Total  cost  for  four  pupils  with  table  for  four,  $33.19. 


[32] 


ELEMENTARY  8LOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


AMOUNT  OF   WOOD   FOR  THE  FIEST  TWELVE  MODELS 
FOE  FOUE   PUPILS 

The  wood  should  be  of  the  best  quality,  kiln-dried  and  planed. 
4  square  feet  £-  inch  Whitewood. 

j          u  it      3        a  it 

3  "         "     i-     "  " 
10        "          "     |-     "  " 

i       "       foot  J-     "  " 

I  "         "     |-     "  White  Pine. 

6       "       feet  f     "  Sweet  Gum  or  Black  Walnut. 

II  tt  a      3.      a        «  a      ((        <(  « 

4  Maple  Dowels  f  inch. 

MISCELLANEOUS 

Wire  Brads  |    inch,  No  19. 

"         "       1       "      No  17. 

'<         "      1|  inches,  No.  15. 
Screws  f    inch,  No.  1. 

"         1       "     No.  8. 

u         H  inches,  No.  10  (Bound  Head). 

2       "        No.  14  (Bound  Head,  Blue). 
£  Pint  Le  Page's  Liquid  Glue. 
Sandpaper  Nos.  1  and  0. 
Flat  File.     (Smooth,  5  inch.) 
Slip  Stone. 

Sharpening  Outfit  (India   Oil   Stone,  Oil  Can,  and  Cotton  Waste, 
mounted  on  wood). 

Grindstone  18  inches  diameter. 


[33] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  ELEMENTARY  SLOYD 


•4. 


Fig.  81, 

I.— PENCIL  SHARPENER 

Whitewood.     £  inch. 

TOOLS 

Pencil,  Eule,  Plane,  Bench  Hook. 

DIRECTIONS 

Wood  prepared  6 J  x  If  inches. 

1.  Plane  one  side  straight. 

2.  Measure  width,  draw  line,  and  plane. 

3.  Plane  one  end  in  bench  hook. 

4.  Measure  length  and  plane. 

5.  Sandpaper  with  block,  rounding  corners. 

6.  Cut  sandpaper,  No.  1,  and  glue  to  wood. 


[37] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


1    I  U 

t 

IMAT'HOOK. 

cuf^4°*- 

HAT  HOOK. 

7 

14" 

Fig.  32. 

2.— HAT  AND  BRUSH  RACK 

White  Pine,     £  inch. 

NEW   TOOLS 
Splitting  Saw,  Try  Square,  Bit  Brace,  and  Drill  Bit. 

BISECTIONS 
Wood  prepared  in  length  14£  inches. 

1.  Plane  one  side  straight  and  square. 

2.  Measure  width,  draw  line,  saw  •£  inch  from  it,  and  plane  to  line* 

3.  See  3  and  4  in  Model  No.  1. 

4.  Draw  centre  line,  measure  for  hooks  and  holes,  and  bore  holes. 

5.  See  5  in  Model  No.  1. 

6.  Put  in  hooks,  two  wire  hooks  for  ends  and  one  cup  hook  for  centre. 


[38] 


ELEMENTARY   WHITTLING   AND  SLOYD 


0 

o 

0 

-h 
w 

Lj 

3 

o 

0 

1 

1 

.- 

wit 

\f 

o 
o 

3 

1     O 

jo 

S  1  "  «• 

Pig.  33. 

3.-STAND 

Whitewood.     i  and  f  inch. 

NEW  TOOLS 
Back  Saw,  Hammer,  and  Nail  Set. 

DIRECTIONS 
Wood  for  supports  11  x  £  inch,  for  slats  11  x  J  inch. 

1.  Saw  for  supports  1  inch  wide  and  plane  square  to  required  dimen- 

sions. 

2.  Find  centre,  saw  with  back  saw. 

3.  See  3  and  4,  Model  No.  1. 

4.  Saw  pieces  for  slats  1  inch  wide,  and  plane  and  saw  as  for  supports. 

5.  Sandpaper,  find  points  for  nails,  drive  and  set  nails. 


[39] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  34. 

4.— SWING  BOARD 

Whitewood.     £  inch. 

NEW   TOOLS 

Centre  Bit  f  inch,  half-round  File  8  inches. 

DIKECTIONS 
Wood  prepared  in  length  13J  inches. 

1.  See  1  and  2  in  Model  No.  2. 

2.  Fasten  wood  firmly  in  the  vise  and  plane  one  end  square.      (In  order 

not  to  split  corners,  always  plane  from  corners  toward  centre.) 

3.  Measure  length,  draw  line,  and  plane  to  it. 

4.  Find  points  for  centres  of  holes,  and  bore  (horizontally)  from  both 

sides. 

5.  Draw  lines  with  try  square,   finish  witli  back  saw,   file,  and  sand- 

paper. 

XOTE  :    See  that  centre  bit  is  well  sharpened  with  file  and  slip  stone 
and  tried  before  using. 


[40] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOTD  AND    WHITTLING 


Fig.  35. 

5.-TEAPOT  STAND 

Whitewood.     f  inch. 

NEW   TOOLS 

Pencil  Compasses,  Turning  Saw,  Spoke-shave,  Screw-driver,  ^-inch. 
Centre  Bit  with  lip  filed  away  is  used  in  making  the  feet. 

DIRECTIONS 
Wood  prepared  7£  x  7-J-  inches. 

1.  Draw  one  diagonal.     Erect  perpendicular  at  centre  and  draw  circle. 

2.  Fasten  wood  firmly  in  vise,  keeping  grain  of  wood  nearly  in  a  verti 

cal  position  to  avoid  splitting. 

3.  Saw  ^  inch  outside  of  circle,  holding  saw  firmly  with  both  hands  at 

handle  end  of  blade.     Care  should  be  taken  to  keep  blade  at  right 
angles  to  surface  of  wood. 

4.  Spoke-shave  to  line,  always  using  the  tool  with  the  grain  of  the  wood. 

5.  Locate  centres  for  holes  and  bore. 

6.  Sandpaper,  make  feet  of  J-inch  wood,  and  fasten  with  |-inch  screws. 


[41] 


ELEMENT AEY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  36. 

6.-SHELF  FOR  PHOTOGRAPHS 

Whitewood.     ±  and  |  inch. 

NEW   TOOLS 

Cross-cut  Saw  and  Knifec 


[42] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD   AND    WHITTLING 


DIKECTIOtfS 

1.  Let  pupil  estimate  the  proper  amount  of  wood. 

2.  Explain  and  illustrate  to  children  the  difference  between  cross-cut 

and  splitting  saws. 

3.  Saw  with  cross-cut  and  splitting  saws. 

4.  Plane  pieces  to  required  dimensions. 

5.  Draw  arcs  with  compasses,  cut  to  line  with  knife,  and  finish  with 

file. 

6.  Locate  points  for  holes  and  nails. 

7.  Bore  holes,  sandpaper,  nail,  and  set  nails. 

NOTE:   Simple  decoration,  such  as  punching,  veining,  or  coloring,  may 
be  used  on  front  of  shelf  at  the  discretion  of  the  teacher. 


[43] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD   AND    WHITTLING 


Fig.  37. 

7.-RING  TOSS 

Whitewood.  |  and  $  inch,  |-inch  dowel. 

NEW   TOOL 

Countersink. 

BISECTIONS 

See  1,  3,  and  4  in  Model  No.  6. 

1.  If  a  bevel  is  desired,  draw  lines  and  plane. 

2.  Locate  holes  for  screws  and  for  dowel. 

3.  Bore  with  centre  bit  and  drill  bit. 

4.  Countersink  holes  for  screws,  sandpaper,  and  fasten  cleats  to  board 

across  the  grain  of  the  wood. 

5.  Fit  and  glue  dowel. 

NOTE:   The    rings  may  be  made  of  rope,    rattan,  or  wire  wound  with 
raffia,  or  bought  ready  for  use. 


[44] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND   WHITTLING 


Fig.  38. 

8.— SPADE 

White  wood.     Thickness,  f  inch. 

DIRECTIONS 

1.  See  1?  3,  and  4  in  Model  No.  6.    «•-. 

2.  Measure  and  draw  on  wood  straight  lines  and  arcs  for  handle  and 

blade. 

3.  Bore  holes  and  saw  with  splitting  saw  and  back  saw. 

4.  Finish  to  lines  with  knife  and  spoke-shave. 

5.  Draw  oblique  lines  on  sides  of  blade,  and  plane. 

6.  Bound  handle  (making  it  first  octagonal)  with  spoke-shave,   finish 

with  file,  and  sandpaper. 


[45] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  39. 

9.-CALENDAR  BACK 

Sweet  Gum  or  Black  Walnut.     £  inch. 

DIRECTIONS 

1.  Prepare  wood  7  inches  long,  and  plane  to  correct  width. 

2.  Draw  centre  line  and  construction  for  top. 

3.  Finish  with  turning  saw,  knife,  and  file. 

4.  Bore  holes  with  f-inch   centre   bit,  beginning  with  lower  left-hand 

hole. 

5.  Mark  length,  saw,  and  plane. 

6.  Finish  with  sandpaper  and  mount  calendar. 

NOTE  :  This  back  may  also  be  used  in  constructing  a  match-safe. 


[46] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


-w 


I/ 


0) 


Fig.  40. 

10.— FRAME 

Sweet  Gum  or  Black  Walnut.       £  inch. 

NEW   TOOL 
Compass  Saw. 

DIEECTIONS 

1.  Prepare  oblong. 

2.  Draw  lines  for  opening. 

3.  Place  centres  for  f-inch  holes  at  corners  and  bore. 

4.  Use  compass  saw,  and  saw  close  to  line. 

5.  Finish  with  knife,  file,  and  sandpaper. 

NOTE  :  Size  of  frame  according  to  the  picture  suggested  by  the  children. 
Cardboard  may  be  used  for  the  back.  The  frame  may  be  finished 
to  dotted  lines  if  desired. 


[47] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  41. 

11.— HANDKERCHIEF  BOX 

Sweet  Gum  or  Black  Walnut.     f  and  £  inch. 

DIKECTIONS 

1.  Prepare  sides  in  one  piece  and  finish  to  required  dimensions. 
2f  Sandpaper  inside  and  nail,  using  1-inch  brads. 

3.  Prepare  cover  and  bottom  in  one  piece  and  finish  to  required  dimen- 

sions. 

4.  Sandpaper  bottom  and  nail. 

5.  Prepare  cleats  and  screw  to  cover. 

6.  Fit  hinges  (1-j  inch  narrow)  and  sink  to  proper  depth  on  box  only, 

screw  hinge  to  box,  and  then  to  cover.     A  simple  fastener  may  be 
attached. 

NOTE  :    Appropriate  decorations,   such  as  simple  carving,  burning,  or 
coloring,  may  be  applied  on  Models  9,  10,  and  11. 


[48] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Whitewood. 


Fig.  42. 

12.—  CART 

,  |,  and  -£  inch.     Maple  Dowel  i  x  24  inches. 


DIRECTIONS 

1.  Prepare   sides   and   bottom   in  .one  piece,   and  the  ends  in  similar 

manner. 

2.  Finish  separate  parts  and  nail  box  together,  using  1^-inch  brads  for 

sides  and  1-inch  brads  for  bottom. 

3.  Prepare  pieces  for  wheels  and  finish  with  turning  saw,  spoke-shave, 

and  file. 

4.  Prepare  axle  and  use  f  -inch  dowel  for  handle. 

5.  Bore  holes  in  sides  of  axle,  in  handle,  and  wheels,  and  fasten  screws 

in  same  order.     Use  round-head  blue   screws  (2  inch  No.  14)  for 
wheels,  and  flat-head  screws  (1-J  inch  No.  10)  for  axle  and  handle. 


[49] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND   WHITTLING 


SUPPLEMENTARY  MODELS 

BY  supplementary  models  is  meant  a  variety  of  objects  containing 
given  exercises  to  suit  individual  needs. 


Fig.  43. 

TOY  WINDMILL 

White  Pine.     $  and  |  inch. 

BISECTIONS 

1.  Make  base  according  to  drawing. 

2.  Make  upright  support  6f  x  -J-  inches  square. 

3.  Plane  one  end  square  in  bench  hook. 

[50] 


ELEMENTARY  8LOTD  AND   WHITTLING 

4.  Taper  with  plane  on  three  sides  to  f-inch  square  at  top. 

5.  Make  "wings"  in  one  length  8Jx-J  inch  square. 

6.  Measure,  square  lines,  cut  in  halves,  and  plane  ends  in  bench  hook 

to  required  length. 

7.  Measure,    square   lines   on  three  sides  of   each    piece,   for    halved 

together  joint. 

8.  Make  joint  with  back  saw  and  knife,  taking  care  to  fit  it  tight  and 

put  together. 

9.  Draw  one  diagonal  at  each  end  in  opposite  directions. 

10.  Measure  and  draw  curved  and  straight  lines  on  both  sides  of  each 

"wing"  according  to  drawing. 

11.  Take  joint  apart  and  finish  "wings"  with  knife  and  sandpaper. 

12.  Press  joint  together  and  bore  holes  through  it  and  the  base  with  y\- 

inch  drill  bit. 

13.  Make  a  round  washer  of  wood  ^  x  -J  inch. 

14.  Sandpaper,  insert  washer,  and  screw  parts  together. 

15.  Insert  a  wire  at  top  with  a  light  flag  which  will  indicate  direction 

of  the  wind.     Fasten  base  in  a  windy  place  with  two  screws  and 
turn  upright  support  according  to  the  direction  of  the  wind. 

NOTE:    A  more  complicated  windmill  which  would  set  in  motion  some 
mechanical  apparatus  may  be  conslructed. 


51] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  44. 

KITE 

Whitewood.     i  inch. 

DIRECTIONS 

1.  Prepare  with  saw  and  plane  two  strips  of  wood,  one  24  x  T5^  inches 

and  the  other  18  x  T5^-  inches. 

2.  Cut  notches  at  ends  with  knife  according  to  drawing. 

3.  Measure  and  join  pieces  together  by  means  of  two  £-inch  brads. 


[52] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 

4.  Sink  brads  with  nail-set,  holding  the  wood  on  a  piece  of  metal,  and 

strengthen  joint  by  winding  and  tying  a  string  crosswise  around. 

5.  Use  light  but  strong  twine  around  the  kite,  tying  it  securely  at  each 

end. 

6.  Cover  with  light  paper  or  cambric  by  folding  and  pasting  or  gluing 

it  around  the  string. 

7.  Fasten  a  piece  of  twine  about  a  foot  long  at  each  side,  and  cut  and  tie 

paper  wings  to  it. 

8.  Make  tail  about  three  times  as  long  as  length  of  kite  and  fasten  light 

paper  wings  on  it  about  8  inches  apart. 

9.  Fasten  the  end  of  a  ball  or  spool  of  strong  twine  to  kite,  according  to 

drawing,  and  in  flying  use  a  reel  to  wind  it  on. 

NOTE  :    Different  sizes  and  shapes  of  kites  may  be  made,  but  the  one 
described  above  will  prove  to  be  simple  and  to  fly  well. 


[53] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  45. 

TOY  BOAT 

White  Pine.     $  inch. 

DIEECTIOKS 

1.  Prepare  wood  11^-  x  3£  inches. 

2.  Plane  one  side  straight. 

3.  Draw  centre  line  parallel  to  planed  side. 

4.  Divide  distances  of  length  and  square  lines  across. 


[54] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND   WHITTLING 

5.  Measure  and  mark  distances  of  width  and  connect  points  with  a 

free-hand  curve. 

6.  Draw  arc  at  end  with  compass. 

7.  Cut  to  lines  with   turning  saw   and  finish   with  spoke- shave  and 

knife. 

8.  Make  keel  and  rudder  according  to  drawing. 

9.  Fasten  keel  and  rudder  with  screws. 

10.  Prepare  lead  for  keel  and  fasten  with  screws. 

11.  Use  y\-inch  maple  dowel  for  mast,  boom,  and  gaff. 

12.  Make  sail  and  rig  according  to  drawing. 

13.  Try  boat  in  bath-tub  to  see  if  it  balances. 

NOTE  :  If  children  have  the  requisite  skill,  use  thicker  wood  for  hull  and 
hollow  it  out  with  gouge  and  shape  it  outside  with  spoke-shave. 
Various  sizes  may  be  made. 


[55] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


a* - 


sfe 


tf- 


Fig.  46. 

DOLL'S  CHAIR 

White  wood,    f  inch. 

DIRECTIONS 

1.  Prepare  an  oblong  for  back  according  to  the  drawing. 

2.  Saw  out  side  pieces  and  seat  in  one  length  and  plane  width. 

3.  Mark  length  of  each  piece  according  to  drawing ;  saw  and  plane  ends. 

4.  Construct  back  and  side  pieces  and  finish  with  back   saw,    turning 

saw,  knife,  and  file. 

5.  Mark  out  heart-shaped  holes  and  finish  with  f -inch  centre  bit,  com- 

pass, saw,  and  file. 

6.  Sandpaper. 

7.  Locate  places  for  brads  and  nail  parts  together. 


56] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND    WHITTLING 


Fig.  47. 

DOLL'S  TABLE 

White  wood,     f  inch. 

DIBECTIONS 

1.  Mark  and  cut  two  legs  in  one  length  and  plane  width. 

2.  Mark  length  of  each  piece,  saw,  and  plane. 

3.  Make  top. 

4.  Prepare  shelf  and  two  cleats  according  to  drawing. 

5.  Construct  feet  and  heart-shaped  holes.     (See  Chair,  4,  5,  6,  and  7.) 

NOTE  :  A  child's  chair  and  table  may  be  made  by  using  f -inch  wood  and 
enlarging  the  dimensions  about  three  times. 

In  this  case  1^-inch  No.  9  screws  should  be  used  for  fastening  parts 
together. 


[57] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND    WHITTLING 


•Ktf- 


** 


#> 


01 ! 


Fig.  48. 

DOLL'S  BEDSTEAD 

Whitewood.     f  and  i  inch. 

DIEECTIONS 

1.  Make  the  two  uprights  in  one  length,  plane  narrow  sides. 

2.  Mark  length,  saw,  and  plane. 

3.  Make  the  two  side  pieces  in  one  width,  plane  narrow  sides  and  ends, 

mark  width,  cut  apart,  and  plane. 

4.  Construct  shape  of  uprights  and  sides  according  to  drawing. 

5.  Finish  top  of  uprights,  using  1-inch  centre  bit  at  round  corners. 

(>.   Construct  feet  and  heart-shaped  holes.     (See  Chair  4,  5,  (3,  and  7.) 

7.  Mark  out  the  strips  for  the  bottom  and  the  cleats   in  one    piece 

15  x  4  x  }  inch. 

8.  Mark  and  cut  pieces  to  proper  dimensions. 

9.  Sandpaper  and-  fasten  parts  together. 


[58] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Whitewood.     f  iuch. 

DIRECTIONS 

1.  Construct  the  parts  iu  detail  upon  paper  or  blackboard. 

2.  Let  pupil  estimate  amount  of  wood  required. 

3.  Take  greatest  length  of  parts  in  the  direction  of  the  grain. 

4.  Construct  back,  shelf,  and  bracket  according  to  drawing. 

5.  Saw  and  plane  parts  to  given  dimensions. 

(i.  Bore  holes  at  top  and  bottom  of  back  with  T3F-inch  drill  bit. 

7.  Sandpaper  parts. 

8.  Space  places  for  brads  or  screws  and  fasten  parts  together. 

XOTP::    If  screws  are  preferred,  use  f-inch  No.  6.     The  shelf  maybe 
stained  and  polished. 


[59J 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  50. 

BIRD  HOUSE 

Wliitewood.    •£  inch. 

DIKECTTONS 

1.  See  1  in  model  Shelf.     Fig.  49. 

2.  Estimate  wood  for  back  and  front  in  one  piece  and  sides  and  bottom 

in  one. 

3.  Plane  required  width  of  these  two  pieces. 

4.  Measure  out  according  to  drawing  and  cut  lengths.     Plane  ends 

without  bench  hook. 

5.  Prepare  top. 

6.  Bore  holes  for  entrance  and  for  ^-iuch  dowel. 

7.  Bore  four  J-inch  holes  through  bottom,  1  inch  from  sides,  for  drainage. 

8.  Nail  sides  together  with  1^-inch  brads. 

9.  Fit  bottom  and  top.     Nail  bottom  and  fasten  top  by  round  head 

blued  screws  1J  inch  No.  8. 
10.  Insert  a  dowel  6  x     inch. 


L60J 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD   AND    WHITTLING 


Fig.  51. 

SLED 

Whitewoocl  or  Ash.     f  inch. 

DIEECTIONS 

1.  Prepare  a  piece  for  the  two  runners  about  36  J  x  7  J  inches. 

2.  Construct  the  outline  of  runners  and  saw  with  splitting  and  turn- 

ing saw. 

3.  Plane  straight  sides  and  use  spoke-shave  and  knife  for  the  curved 

parts. 

4.  If  convenient,  plan  for  top  and  the  two  supports  in  one  piece,  about 
22}  x  10  inches.     Cut  out  supports  from  one  side  in  one  length. 

5.  Plane  narrow  faces  of  top  and  supports  to  required  width. 
0.  Construct  ends  on  top  and  support. 

7.  Use  turning  saw  on  curved  ends  of  top  and  finish  with  spoke-shave, 


knife,  and  file. 


[61] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD   AND    WHITTLING 

8.  Bore  a  j-inch  hole  in  a  waste  piece  of  wood.     Finish  round  ends  of 

supports  with  back  saw  and  knife,  and  fit  tight  in  j-inch  hole. 

9.  Mark  out  and  bore  holes  on  sides  of  runners.     Finish  the  handle 

hole  with  j-inch  centre  bit,  compass  saw,  knife,  and  file. 

10.  Bore  screw  holes  with  T3¥-inch  drill  bit  and  use  countersink. 

11.  Use  IJ-iuch  screws  Ko.  9. 

XOTE  :  If  under  part  of  runners  have  the  edges  rounded  off,  they  may 
be  used  without  iron  shoes.  If  children  are  able  to  do  so,  they 
may  use  hoop  iron  for  shoes,  punching,  drilling,  and  countersink- 
ing holes  for  screws,  bending  it  around  the  "toe"  and  "heel"  and 
fastening  with  J-inch  Xo.  6  screws. 


162] 


ELEMENTARY  8LOYD  AND   WHITTLING 


ALTERNATE 


DE-TA.H_  or  CONSTRUC.TIOIM  OM 

TOP  AND    SIDES   Or  TA»OU«ET  . 


Fig.  52. 

TABOURET 

Wliitowood  or  Basswoorl.     f  inch. 

PIKECTIOXS 

1.  Saw  out  two  pieces  of  wood  for  sides,  one  S-A^xlOJ  inches  and  the 

other  34J  x  9  inches. 

2.  If  too  long  to  plane,  cut  each  piece  in  halves  and  plane  to  required 

width. 

3.  Plane  each  end  square  to  required  length. 

4.  Draw  construction  on  each  of  the  four  sides  and  cut  with  centre  bit, 

splitting  saw,  knife,  and  spoke -shave. 

5.  Smooth  inside  of  each  piece  with  plane  and  sandpaper. 

6.  See  that  the   narrow  faces  of  the  two  narrow  sides  are  perfectly 

square. 


[63] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 

7.  Make  four  cleats  each  7Jx  jx  J  inch  and  bore  two  TViuch  holes 

through  both  sides. 

8.  Screw  cleats  on  the  inner  side  of  the  four  pieces  flush  with  top. 

9.  Space  and  mark  for  nails  on  the  two  broad  sides,  about  1  inch  from 

ends  and  3  inches  between  nails. 

10.  Use  li-inch  brads  and  drive  nearly  through  at  these  marks. 

11.  Put  glue  on  narrow  side  and  nail  each  corner  together  quickly. 

12.  Sink  nails,  smooth  sides  with  plane  and  sandpaper,  take  off  sharp 

corners  with  sandpaper. 

13.  Prepare  top  12  J  x  12J  inches. 

14.  Find  centre,  construct  quarterfoil,  and  bore  with  1-iuch  centre  bit. 

To  avoid  splitting  bore  last  hole  so  that  lip  and  cutter  of  bit  re- 
volve in  the  direction  of  the  grain. 

15.  Eound  narrow  faces  with  plane  about  £  inch. 

16.  Smooth  with  plane  and  sandpaper. 

17.  Fit  top  on  sides  and  fasten  with  IJ-inch  screws  through  cleats. 

18.  Stain  with  walnut  water  stain.      When   dry,    sandpaper  lightly, 

polish  with  wax,  and  brush  and  give  it  a  coat  of  shellac. 

In  addition  to  the  articles  described,  a  number  of  simple  and  useful 
objects  may  be  designed  by  teachers  and  pupils. 


64] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOTD  AND  WHITTLING 


STAINING  AND  POLISHING 

GENERALLY  it  is  best  to  keep  the  natural  color  of  the  wood,  especially 
when  the  color  and  the  grain  have  a  pleasing  appearance. 

Some  simple  stain  may  be  applied  on  such  plain  objects  as  would 
warrant  it,  and  should  be  such  as  not  to  cover  up  the  grain  of  the  wood 
like  paint.  Walnut  water  stain  is  most  satisfactory.  It  gives  to  the 
wood  a  dark  brown  color.  If  not  dark  enough,  another  coat  should  be 
applied  after  the  first  is  dry.  If  too  dark,  water  should  be  added.  If  a 
green  color  is  wanted,  a  very  small  amount  of  green  crystal  aniline  may 
be  added  to  the  water  stain.  The  mixture,  however,  should  first  be 
tried  on  a  waste  piece  of  wood  in  order  to  ascertain  if  the  color  is  right. 

A  simple  method  of  polishing  may  be  employed  with  or  without  pre- 
vious staining  by  applying  raw  linseed  oil  and  sandpapering  lightly 
until  dry.  Then  rub  with  soft  shavings  or  cloth. 

Another  simple  method  of  polishing  is  to  apply  "  Butchers'  Floor 
Wax  "  with  a  piece  of  cloth,  brushing  it  with  a  stiff,  clean  brush  as  you 
would  polish  shoes.  Similar  wax  may  be  made  by  mixing  beeswax  and 
turpentine  to  the  consistency  of  soft  clay.  A  coat  of  thin  shellac, 
quickly  and  evenly  applied  with  a  brush,  will  make  the  finish  more  dur- 
able. 


65 


WHITTLING 


[67] 


WHITTLING 

IN  the  Elementary  Sloyd  described  in  the  first  part  of  this  book, 
whittling  is  not  practised.  As  a  general  rule,  children  under  twelve 
years  of  age  have  not  sufficient  strength  or  control  of  the  hand  to  use 
the  knife  correctly.  Whittling  is  recommended  only  when  it  is  not  pos- 
sible to  have  the  Elementary  Sloyd,  which  requires  a  special  room  fitted 
up  with  benches  and  a  variety  of  tools.  Such  an  outfit  is  more  effective 
educationally,  but  economically  it  is  more  expensive.  Whittling  can  be 
done  in  the  regular  schoolroom  by  the  regular  teacher  and  with  a  com- 
paratively inexpensive  outfit. 

By  a  skilful,  experienced,  and  tactful  teacher  a  whole  class  of  the 
usual  size  in  the  public  schools  may  be  instructed  simultaneously,  but  as 
in  any  work  of  motor  training,  or  whenever  the  hands  are  employed  to 
give  expression  to  thought,  the  difference  in  individuals  reveals  itself 
so  plainly  that  it  is  evident  that  the  best  educational  results  can  be  ob- 
tained only  when  free  scope  is  given  to  individual  abilities.  Conse- 
quently, the  number  of  children  in  the  class  should  be  limited.  Drill, 
mass  instruction,  and  various  means  of  keeping  children  together  may 
be  employed  and  some  fairly  good  visible  results  obtained,  but  in  nine 
cases  out  of  ten  the  educational  effect  on  the  child  is  very  little,  and  in 
some  cases  more  injurious  than  helpful.  Hence,  it  is  important  that  in 
this  work  a  regular  class  be  divided  whenever  it  is  possible. 

The  children  should  be  taught  to  make  sketches  and  working  draw- 
ings of  the  simple  models  and  should  also  learn  to  read  printed  drawings 
or  such  as  are  made  by  some  one  else. 

The  model  and  the  drawing  should  at  first  be  presented  together  by 
the  teacher,  and  enlarged  blackboard  drawings  may  be  made  for  the 
whole  class  to  read.  The  aim  of  drawing  is  to  give  the  pupil  a  correct 
mental  picture  of  what  he  is  expected  to  make,  consequently  it  should 
always  precede  manual  work. 

[69] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 

The  knife  is  the  least  mechanical  and  the  most  familiar  of  tools,  and 
if  correctly  used  teaches  the  pupil  to  think  before  he  acts,  because  of 
its  simultaneous  demand  upon  the  mind  and  the  muscles  of  the  arm, 
wrist,  hand,  and  tingers. 

The  knife,  however,  is  only  one  among  the  half  hundred  cutting  tools 
used  in  sloyd.  The  value  of  Whittling  alone  as  a  means  of  education 
may  not  be  very  great,  but  it  is  believed  that  it  may  supply  an  educa- 
tional need  when  practised  under  the  following  conditions: 

1.  The  child  should  have  sufficient  strength  to  handle  the  knife  cor- 
rectly. 

2.  The  whittling  should  be  taught  preferably  by  the  regular  teacher, 
who  must  be  possessed  of  sufficient  technical  skill. 

3.  The  position  of  the  body  and  the  movements  used  in  the  various 
exercises  must  be  such  as  not  to  retard  physical  growth. 

4.  The  wrork  should  as  much  as  possible  be  done  in  erect  standing 
position  and  the  material  should  be  large  enough  to  permit  freedom  of 
movement. 

5.  The  exercises  should  be  carefully  graded  from  the  easy  to  the  dif- 
ficult and  should  be  applied  on  objects  useful  to  the  worker  and  of  artis- 
tic merit. 

0.  The  knife  should  be  of  correct  size  and  construction. 

7.  Wood  suitable  to  the  objects  should  be  carefully  selected  and 
properly  prepared. 

GEXEEAL   DIKECTIONS 

1.  With  the  point  of  tiie  knife  draw  and  cut  in  a  good  sitting  posi 
tion ;    but  whittle,   use  the  sandpaper,    bore,   etc.,   in  an  easy,   correct 
standing  position. 

2.  Always  hold  the  rule  on  the  edge  in  measuring,   marking,  and 
testing  for  dimensions,  and  place  it  flat  on  material  when  drawing  lines. 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 

3.  Keep  lead  pencils  sharp.     Ad j  ust  the  point  of  pencil  to  the  same 
length  as  the  point  of  the  compass.     In  drawing  arcs  and  circles  hold 
compasses  at  the  top  between  thumb  and  forefinger  and  keep  needle 
point  as  nearly  perpendicular  to  the  surface  as  possible. 

4.  In  squaring  lines  and  testing,  hold  beam  of  the  try  square  close  to 
the  true  face.     Whittled  surfaces  which  are  less  than  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  should  not  be  tested  by  the  try  square. 

5.  Use  the  eyes  to  test  straightuess,  squareness,  and  symmetry  of 
work  before  applying  any  other  testing  instruments. 

6.  Grasp  the  knife  with  the   right  hand,  if  right-handed,  with  the 
thumb  bound  over  the  fingers  as  in  clenched  fist. 

7.  Hold  the  wood  at  the  end  nearest  you. 

8.  Eest  forearm  against  body  and  cut  from  you  and  downward. 

9.  Do  not  cut  from  the  very  end,  but  start  first  beyond  the  hand,  and 
turn  the  wood  to  finish. 

10.  Try  to  use  the  whole  length  of  the  blade  by  drawing  it  through 
the  wood  as  you  cut.     Do  not  scrape. 

11.  If  you  have  a  broad  face  to  cut,  take  off  the  edges  first. 

12.  Never  cut  clear  across  an  end  or  the  fibres,  but  always  from  the 
sides  toward  the  middle. 

13.  Do  not  use  sandpaper  before  the  model  is  as  well  finished  as  pos- 
sible with  the  knife.     Eemove  pencil  marks  with  an  eraser. 

14.  Stretch  sandpaper  over  a  block  with  the  fingers  when  sandpaper- 
ing flat    surfaces.     Eemember  that  the  purpose  of  using  sandpaper  is 
merely  to  make  the  object  clean  and  smooth  and  not  to  reduce  dimen- 
sions. 


[71 


ELEMENTARY  8LOYD  AND  WHITTLING 
WORKING  DIRECTIONS   FOR   WHITTLING 

u*- 


Fig.  53. 

1. -PLANT  LABEL 

Basswood.     T85  inch. 

DIRECTIONS 
Wood  sawed  off  7J  and  split  to  1J  inches. 

1.  Draw  a  straight  line  near  and  parallel  to  one  split  edge  and  whittle 

to  it. 

2.  Mark  width  at  each  end,  connect  points  by  a  line,  and  whittle  to  it. 

3.  Construct  point  according  to  drawing  and  whittle. 

4.  Measure  length.     Square  line  across  and  whittle  from  corners  toward 

centre. 

5.  Sandpaper  with  block,  narrow  faces  first,  then  broad  faces. 


[72] 


ELEMENTAEY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


1 


Fig.  54. 

2.—  PENCIL  SHARPENER 


Whitewood. 


inch. 


DIRECTIONS 
Wood  sawed  off  and  split  6J  x  1  J  inches. 

1.  See  1  and  2  in  Model  No.  1. 

2.  Square  line  across  near  one  end  and  whittle  to  it. 

3.  Measure  length  and  draw  line  and  whittle. 

4.  See  4  in  Model  No.  1. 

5.  See  5  in  Model  No.  1. 

6.  Mark  out  on  the  back  of  sandpaper  a  piece  the  proper  size  and  cut 

with  a  knife  kept  for  the  purpose. 

7.  Apply  a  thin  coat  of  Le  Page's  Liquid  Glue  to  back  of  sandpaper 

and  press  it  firmly  upon  the  wood. 


[73J 


ELEMENTARY  SLOTD  AND   WHITTLING 


r 

L 


3.-KEY  TAG 


ni 


DIRECTIONS 
Wood  prepared  4^x  If  inches. 

1.  See  1  and  2,  Model  1, 

2.  Locate  point  and  draw  arc  with  compass.     Whittle  to  line. 

3.  Bore  hole  at  centre  with  gimlet  bit,  taking  care  to  keep  the  bit  per- 

pendicular.    When  centre  point  appears,  turn  wood  and  finish, 

4.  See  4  in  Model  No.  1. 

5.  See  5  in  Model  No.  1. 


L74J 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


-MATCH  SCRATCHER 

Whitewood.     ^  inch. 

DIKECTIONS 
Wood  prepared  6Jx2J  inches. 

1.  See  1  and  2,  Model  No.  1. 

2.  Draw  centre  line. 

3.  Locate  points  for  centres  of  semicircles  at  each  end,  and  square  lines 

across  at  these  points. 

4.  Draw  semicircles. 

5.  Cut    square  shoulders   by  notching.     Finish   to  semicircles,   taking 

care  to  whittle  with  the  grain. 

6.  Bore  hole  with  fine  brad  awl  at  the  centres. 
E  See  5  in  Model  No.  1. 

8.  See  6  and  7  in  Model  No.  2. 


[75] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND   WHITTLING 


4— J 


5.-STAND  FOR  PAPER  FILE 

Whitewood.     £  inch. 

DIRECTIONS 
Wood  prepared  4  J  x  3  j  inches. 

1.  Find  centre  of  wood  and  draw  straight  line  with  the  grain. 

2.  Draw  a  circle  of  2 -inch  radius. 

3.  Construct  hexagon,  beginning  at  the  intersection  of  the  centre  line. 

4.  Whittle  the  two  sides  running  parallel  to  the  grain  first,  then  the 

others. 

5.  Draw  and  cut  a  bevel  of  £  inch  on  the  side  free  from  pencil  marks 

and  make  it  round  by  cutting  off  sharp  edges. 

6.  See  5  in  Model  No.  1. 

7.  For  the  file  use  a  steel  wire  brad  4  inches  in  length  No.  14.    Sharpen 

point  on  the  oil  stone  and  drive  it  through  from  the  under  side 
at  centre. 


76] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND   WHITTLING 


6.— TAG 

Whitewood.     i  inch. 

DIRECTIONS 
Wood  prepared  4Jxlj  inches. 

1.  See  1  in  Model  No.  5. 

2.  Locate  points  for  arcs  and  draw  circles. 

3.  Draw  straight  lines  through  tangents. 

4.  Whittle  to  straight  line  first  and  then  to  arcs. 

5.  See  5  in  Model  No.  1. 


[77] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND   WHITTLING 


Fig.  59. 

7.— THREAD  WINDER 


Basswood. 


inch. 


DIRECTIONS 
Wood  prepared  3jx2£  inches. 

1.  See  1  and  2  in  Model  No.  1. 

2.  Square  line  across  near  one  end  and  whittle  to  it. 

3.  Measure  length,  square  line,  and  whittle. 

4.  Measure  and  draw  two  centre  lines,  dividing  width  and  length. 

5.  Mark  points  for  corners. 

6.  Locate  centres  for  arcs  with  compasses  from  these  points. 

7.  Draw  arcs  and  whittle. 

8.  Sandpaper  curves  by  hand,  and  straight  faces  with  block. 


ELEMENTARY  8LOTD  AND   WHITTLING 


Fig.  60. 

8.-MAT 

Whitewood.  -£  inch. 

BISECTIONS 
Wood  prepared  about  4x4  inches. 

1.  Draw  one  diagonal.     Erect  perpendicular  at  centre. 

2.  Find  centre  for  quarterfoil  and  construct   semicircles  according  to 

drawing. 

3.  Whittle  to  line,  noting  carefully  the  direction  of  the  grain. 

4.  See  5  in  Model  No.  1. 


79  J 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND   WHITTLING 


Fig.  61. 

9.-KEY  BOARD 

Whitewood.     y\  inch. 

BISECTIONS 
Prepare  wood  4|  x  34  inches. 

1.  Make  the  piece  3  inches  wide. 

2.  Draw  a  centre  line  and  construct  shield  according  to  drawing. 

3.  See  3  in  Model  No.  8. 

4.  Bore  hole  and  mark  places  for  three  hooks. 

5.  Sandpaper. 

6.  Insert  hooks. 


180J 


ELEMENTARY  SLOTD  AND  WHITTLING 


10.-PICTURE  FRAME 

Basswood.     -J-  inch. 

DIBECTKOTS 

Size  of  frame  may  be  decided  by  pupil  with  the  teacher's  approval. 

1.  Cut  two  sides  and  oue  end  square. 

2.  Draw  centre  line  and  construct  according  to  drawing. 

3.  Place  wood  firmly  on  a  cutting-board,  and  with  point  of  knife  score 

and  notch  lines  across  the  interior  about  J  inch  inside  of  line  until 
the  knife  point  is  through  the  wood.  Cut  and  score  carefully,  in  a 
similar  manner,  the  other  two  sides.  Whittle  the  interior  to  line. 

4.  Whittle  outer  curved  end. 

5.  Sandpaper. 

6.  The  frame  may  be  stained  with  walnut  water  stain,  and  waxed  and 

brushed  on  the  front  and  narrow  faces. 

7.  Cut  cardboard  for  the  back  }  inch  wider  and  f  inch  longer  than  open- 

ing. Cut  strips  of  cardboard  J  inch  wide  and  glue  on  three  sides 
of  the  back  of  cardboard,  and,  when  dry,  glue  onto  frame,  making  a 
pocket  for  the  picture. 


LSI] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  -WHITTLING 


3TI3 


10 


Fig.  63. 

11. -MOP  HANDLE 

White  Pino.     4  inch. 

DIRECTIONS 

Straight-grained  wood  should  be  selected  about  11  inches  long  and  splil 

about  J  inch  wide. 

1.  See  1  and  2,  Model  No.  1.     Whittle  with  long,  steady  strokes. 

2.  Whittle  edges  at  both  ends  until  octagonal.     This  will  serve  as 

guide  in  cutting  the  rest  of  the  stick. 

3.  Cut  the  next  set  of  corners,  making  it  sixteen-sided,  and  then  cylin- 

drical. 

4.  Finish   one   end.     Mark   and   notch   around   this   end  according 

drawing. 

5.  Cut  length  and  round  the  end  £  inch,  taking  care  to  keep  intersectioi 

sharp. 

6.  Sandpaper  by  hand. 


[821 


ELEMENTARY  8LOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


f 

S\ 

T 

1 

k                     -/ 

\      13 

E£       2 

{ 

5"                                 vj 

j  i 

1     L 

t 

^  • 

i 

Fij 

;.  IM. 

12.-DOOF 

I  BUTTON 

Whitewood.     f  inch. 

DIEECTIOXS 
Prepare  wood  5J  x  1-J-  inches. 

1.  Draw  lines  and  whittle  two  sides  straight  and  square. 

2.  Mark  and  draw  oblique  lines  for  under  part  and  whittle. 

3.  Draw  a  centre  line  and  arcs  at  both  ends  and  bore  hole  from  both 

sides. 

4.  Whittle  curved  ends. 

5.  Sandpaper. 

(This  button  may  be  used  for  a  door  which  is  flush  with  the  casing. ) 


[83] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  65. 

13.-DOOR  BUTTON 

White  Pine.     £  inch. 

BISECTIONS 
Prepare  wood  4Jx  1J  inches. 

1.  See  1  in  Model  No.  12. 

2.  Construct  on  the  two  narrow  sides  according  to  drawing. 

3.  Draw  centre  line  and  arcs.     Draw  on  both  sides  at  thick  end. 

4.  Notch  and  whittle  the  thin  part  of  button. 

5.  Whittle  the  curved  ends  and  bore  hole  from  both  sides. 

6.  Make  the  under  part  of  thin  end  a  little  curved  to  avoid  friction  (i 

cross  section). 

7.  Sandpaper. 

(This  button  may  be  used  for  a  door  with  a  moulding. ) 


[84] 


ELEMENTAEY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  66. 

14.-BAT  FOR  TIP  CAT 

White  wood,     i  inch. 

BISECTIONS 
Prepare  wood  IGJxlJ  inches. 

1.  Whittle  wood    straight   and   square,    making  width    according    to 

drawing. 

2.  Construct  handle  and  whittle. 

3.  Measure  and  cut  length. 

4.  Draw  arc  at  corners  and  whittle. 

5.  Bound  edges  of  handle  according  to  drawing. 

6.  Sandpaper. 


[85] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  67. 

15.-TIP  CAT 

White  Pine.     1  inch. 

DIBECTIOXS 
Prepare  wood  4£xlJ  inches. 

1.  See  1,  Model  14. 

2.  Cut  one  end  square,  measure  length,  square  line,  and  cut. 

3.  Measure  and  square  lines  around  for  pointed  ends. 

4.  Measure  and  draw  J  inch  square  at  centre  on  each  end. 

5.  Draw  oblique  lines  for  points  on  two  opposite  sides  and  whittle. 
G.  Draw  and  whittle  the  other  sides  in  a  similar  manner. 

7.  Whittle  middle  part  octagonal. 

8.  Whittle  pointed  ends  octagonal. 

9.  Sandpaper  with  block. 


[86] 


ELEMENTARY  8LOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  08. 

16.-PEN-HOLDER 

Red  Cedar.     4-  inch. 

DIBECTIOKS 
Prepare  wood  7J  x  f  inch. 

1.  See  1  in  Model  ^o.  14. 

2.  Draw  diagonals  at  one  end  and  bore  hole  with  ^-inch  drill  bit. 

3.  Whittle  peg  and  insert  before  cutting  right  length.     Try  if  a  pen 

can  be  easily  inserted. 

4.  Measure  and  draw  oblique  lines  on  one  side  and  whittle. 

5.  Proceed  in  a  similar  way  on  the  other  side. 

6.  Whittle  edges,  making  it  octagonal. 

7.  Whittle  next  set  of  edges,  making  it  round. 

8.  Whittle  thick  end  curved.     Measure  length  and  cut. 

9.  Sandpaper. 


[87] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOTD  AND  WHITTLING 


JEO3 


Fig.  69. 

17.-LETTER  OPENER 

Sweet  Gum.     ^  inch. 

DIKECTIONS 

Prepare  wood  8  x  f  inch. 

1.  See  1,  Model  No.  14. 

2.  Mark  length  of  handle  and  square  line  around. 

3.  Draw  centre  lines  on  the  two  opposite  planed  faces. 

4.  Draw  lines  for  thickness  of  blade  on  each  side  of  centre  line. 

5.  Whittle  thickness  of  blade  flat, 

6.  Whittle  handle  octagonal. 

7.  Whittle  blade  curved  to  centre  lines  (see  cross  section). 

8.  Cut  the  curved  end  of  handle. 

9.  Measure  length,  draw  point  of  blade,  and  whittle. 

10.  Sandpaper  octagonal  handle  with  block,  blade  and  ends  by  hand. 

See  that  blade  is  sharp  enough  to  cut  paper. 


[88] 


ELEMENTAEY  8LOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


18.-LINE  CLEAT 

Birch,     f  inch. 

DIRECTIONS 

Prepare  wood  4f  x  1  inch. 

1.  See  1  in  Model  No.  14. 

2.  Measure  length  and  find  middle,  square  lines  around  at  these  marks. 

Draw  centre  line  on  top. 

3.  Construct  side  view  according  to  drawing. 

4.  Cut  to  these  lines,  flat. 

5.  Draw  semicircles  on  top  and  arcs  at  bottom. 

6.  Cut  semicircles  and  curved  under  part. 

7.  Bore  holes. 

NOTE:  A  variation  in  shapes  and  sizes  of  this  cleat  may  be  made.  The 
long  sides  and  top  may  be  curved,  making  it  narrower  at  ends  and 
more  beautiful.  The  cleat  may  be  used  for  boats,  flag-pole  lines, 
or  clothes-line.  It  is  considered  better  than  those  made  of  metal. 


[89] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


-*1  rR 


Fig.  71. 

I9.-CLAY  MODELING  TOOL 

Maple,     ^g  inch.     (Straight-grained.) 

DIBECTIONS 
Prepare  wood  6  J  x  J  inch. 

1.  See  1  in  Model  14. 

2.  Mark  and  cut  the  required  length. 

3.  Make  construction  complete  on  one  side  according  to  drawing. 

4.  Whittle  to  lines. 

5.  Model  the  blade  to  a  sharp  edge  and  round  the  corners  of  handle. 

6.  Cut  notches  on  back  of  blade,  and  point  the  four  sides  on  end  of 

handle. 

7.  Sandpaper,  making  the  knife  edge  strong  and  durable. 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


.1 

-v£/~ 

1 

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^ 

I 

) 

} 

20.-PAPER  KNIFE 

Maple.     T8ff  inch.     (Straight-grained.) 

DIKECTIONS 
Prepare  wood  11$  x  1 J  inches. 

1.  See  1,  Model  Xo.  14. 

2.  Construct  knife  on  one  side  according  to  drawing. 

3.  Whittle  to  lines. 

4.  Draw  centre  lines  on  narrow  faces  of  blade. 

5.  Whittle  blade  curved  (see  cross  section). 

6.  Sandpaper   semicircular  cuts  by  putting  sandpaper  around  the  lead 

pencil,  and  the  rest  with  block. 


[91] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


WHITTLING   OUTFIT 


Fig.  78. 

DESK  TOP  FOR  WHITTLING  COURSE 

Regular  size,  9  x  15  inches. 


[92] 


ELEMENTARY  8LOYD  AND  WHITTLING 


Fig.  74. 


BOX  FOR  WHITTLING  OUTFIT 

This  box  is  designed  for  a  class  of  twenty  in  Whittling  Course.  Con- 
tains twenty  of  each— Lead  Pencils  No.  3;  Kules,  one  foot;  Sloyd 
Knives,  3-inch  blade;  New  Pencil  Compasses,  Try-  Squares  4 -inch, 
Sandpaper  Blocks.  Price,  $15. 


[93] 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND   WHITTLING 


CHEST  CONTAINING   TEACHEES'   TOOLS   AND  SUPPLIES   AS 

FOLLOWS: 

Cross-cut  Saw,  22-inch;  Try  Square,  8-inch;  Hatchet  No.  1,  Clamp 
Vise ;  Bit  Brace,  2  drill  bits,  with  bit  points  ^  inch ;  (>  Auger-bit  Gim- 
lets, J-iuch ;  India  Oil  Stone,  Oil  Can,  2  Honing  Straps,  2  pounds  Cotton 
Waste,  2  quires  Sandpaper  No.  0  and  No.  1. 


AMOUNT    OF   WOOD    FOE    THE    FIEST    TEN    MODELS    FOE 

TWENTY   PUPILS. 

The  wood  should  be-  of  best  quality,  straight-grain,  kiln-dried,  and 
planed. 

7  square  feet    ^-inch  Whitewood,  approximate  width  6  inches. 

K  U  U         _3__      tt  U  U  U  ft  H 

1  6 

3  U  it  1         U  ti  U  U  g  it 

5        "         "       4-    "     Basswood  "  "       6       " 

5        "         «      _:i_.  u  «  »  «       6 


" 


If  the  teacher  has  no  facilities  for  cutting  up  the  wood,  pieces  cut  to 
the  approximate  length  and  width  may  be  ordered.  State  kind  and 
thickness  as  well  as  number  of  pieces  needed  of  each  kind. 


[94 


ILLUSTRATION   OF  SPONTANEOUS 
CREATIONS 


ELEMENTARY  SLOYD  AND  WHITTLING 

NAMES   OF   OBJECTS   IN   FIG.  75   AS   GIVEN   BY   THE 

CHILDREN 


1.  Chain      (showing      working        22. 

method).  23. 

2.  Chain  (complete).  24. 

3.  Dagger.  25. 

4.  Sword.  26. 

5.  Wheelbarrow.  27. 

6.  Pistol.  28. 

7.  Eyeglasses.  29. 

8.  Pencil-box.  30. 

9.  Horse's  head.  31. 

10.  Eazor.  32. 

11.  Hatchet.  33. 

12.  New  York  dude.  34. 

13.  Rocking-chair.  .  35. 

14.  "  The  Old  Oaken  Bucket. "  36. 

15.  Rolling-pin.  37 

16.  Revolver.  39. 

17.  Ladder. 

18.  Shovel.  40. 

19.  Bat  and  ball.  41. 

20.  Spade  (for  greasing  axles).         42. 

21.  Canoe.  43. 


Row-boat. 
Clock. 

Puzzle  (made  from  one  piece). 
House  with  attic. 
Cuban  sword. 

The  pig  that  swims  in  the  sea. 
Camel. 
Doll. 
Pistol. 
Catapult. 
Double-runner. 
Sled. 

Mayflower. 
Fulton's  boat. 
Steamboat. 

and  38.  Yoke  of  oxen  with  sled. 
House  (made  by  Thomas  String- 
er, deaf,  dumb,  and  blind). 
Saw-horse. 
Sled. 

Carpenter's  bench. 
Lumber  wagon. 


This  collection  of  objects,  made  without  supervision  or  direction  on 
the  part  of  the  teacher,  is  of  special  value  to  those  interested  in  child 
study.  It  is  suggestive  in  many  ways.  The  child's  imagination,  inter- 
est, and  creative  instinct  are  manifested  in  these  bits  of  wood,  and  those 
who  are  planning  courses  of  work  may  "  catch  some  hints  "  from  such  pro- 
ductions. 


[90] 


Fig.  75. — Spontaneous  Creations  in  Wood  by  Children  uuder 
Twelve  Years  of  Age. 


97 


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